Feeling Bullish in Birmingham

A 100-Mile Waterway and a Giant Bronze Bull

Venice may hold the crown for the world’s most famous waterways, but Birmingham once trumped the Italian city’s celebrated title.

Birmingham’s canal system, which was built during the Industrial Revolution, once boasted more canal miles than Venice and remains one of the most intricate canal networks in the world. Visit its hub – Gas Street Basin, in the heart of Birmingham’s city centre – to see the colourful boats and exquisite architecture, whilst you enjoy the more modern canal-side restaurants, shopping and night clubs. Take the Water Bus and explore.

Step away from the canals and you might come face to face with one of Europe’s largest bulls. The giant bronze beast arrived in 2003, and celebrates Birmingham’s Bullring marketplace, dating back to the 12th century. Originally known as the Bulrygne, a bull-baiting site, the Bullring it has always been Birmingham’s most prosperous marketplace.

Don’t expect to find any live cattle here today though – bull baiting was banned in 1835 – instead, expect a fabulous shopping experience. Millions of pounds have been spent on regenerating Birmingham’s city centre, and with its eye-catching architecture , large open squares , galleries and some fantastic shopping, its been worth every penny.

Where to stay in Birmingham: Staying Cool – read our review

Staying Cool - Birmingham - self catering apartments

Staying Cool - Birmingham
Friday 17.16
Stepping out of Birmingham New Street station, it quickly becomes apparent that we won’t need a map to find our apartment for tonight - the landmark Rotunda building, soaring 20 storeys into the sky, is pretty much dead in front of us.

Staying Cool's landmark Rotunda building

17.21
We enter the sleek angled lobby, marvelling at the colour-changing stalactite light instalment running the full length of the space.

We know that the concierge is expecting us; Staying Cool, who manage the apartments in the Rotunda building, sent a thoughtful ‘looking forward to seeing you’ text message while we were en route.

Check-in takes just a few minutes during which Danny, our concierge, sets out a few eminently reasonable house rules - basically no parties, and no trashing the place, not that we would! - before we whizz up to our 19th floor apartment in the lift.

17.25
We’re impressed before we even open the apartment’s door by the striking acid-green and monochrome design of the circular lift lobby - appealing to Monsieur 2’s inner sci-fi geek!

Once inside the apartment itself we explore the unusual wedge-shaped space (due to the cylindrical shape of the building).

First we check out the huge main living space; it’s impossible not to head straight over to the floor-to-ceiling windows which offer a sweeping panoramic view of the city below. The French windows open right up; fortunately sturdy waist-height barriers provide the security I need to overcome my vertigo, and we spend a few minutes taking in the spectacular vista.

17.40
The main bedroom (we booked a two-bedroom Maxi apartment) opens off the living area. It’s compact - not much bigger than the double bed in its centre- but its city view creates the illusion of it being larger than it actually is.

We unpack and hang up our party clothes - we’re planning on painting the town red later!

17.55
Time to unwind. The living area is a stylish mix of retro and modern; contemporary furniture and artwork have been chosen to reflect the Rotunda’s 1960s heritage (I particularly covet the Tom Dixon lampshades).

We also play around with the very 21st century gadgetry including Apple TV and iPod dock, but the only entertainment we really need is that view! We uncork a bottle of wine and watch the city buzz away far below.

18.43
A friend calls to invite us out for drinks on Hurst Street, the heart of Birmingham’s gay village.

It’s just a ten minute walk from Rotunda, the route taking us past the famous Bullring shopping centre and through Chinatown, so we get to take in some of the city’s sights on the way.

18.54
We meet in the charming courtyard garden of the super-stylish Loft Lounge, already busy with a cool crowd.

A round of drinks costs barely two-thirds what it would it in London - we could get dangerously used to this, and stay for a few more...

20.30
Hungry, we head back towards the city centre and chic new cicchetti bar Fumo. A spin-off of well-known Italian restaurant San Carlo next door, it’s a smart, stylish spot for dinner, its location opposite the city’s Louis Vuitton store reflected in the clientele’s glammer-than-glam attire.

We pull up a couple of stools at the honey-coloured marble bar, and feast on impeccable fritto misto, perfect porchetta and one of our favourite Italian dishes, vitello tonnato.

A bottle of fragrant Verdicchio is the perfect accompaniment and service couldn’t be friendlier.

21.25
Back out onto the scene, we hit youthful dance bar Sidewalk.

Then we move to the laid-back cabaret joint Village Inn, where we stay for the next few hours enjoying a great drag show, lots of cheap drinks and the lively company of the locals.

01.47
We stagger - we’ll admit - back to Rotunda and zoom up to the very welcome embrace of our luxe apartment. We love the way that, letting ourselves in with our security fob, it feels just like coming home (and there’s no stern receptionist to scowl at us...) We collapse contentedly into our very comfortable bed, where the view looks even more spectacular.

Saturday 10.11
Ouch...nursing hangovers we drag ourselves out of bed and boy are we grateful to find that the smart self-catering kitchen has a fantastic espresso machine! There’s also a range of our favourite Dorset Cereals, but we do encounter our stay’s only real failure: the ‘fresh’ oranges we’ve been promised for the juicer are way, way past their prime. Reception are profusely apologetic when we call to let them know, and five minutes later there's a knock at our door and some fresh oranges arrive, all ready for us to juice. After breakfast and buckets of coffee, we go for a hot shower.

10.42
The great thing about having our Maxi apartment is that we have the luxury of two bathrooms, which means we can shower separately (usually it would be together but we both need to soak our headaches away in private).

Each sleek, minimally-white bathroom has a range of full-size products, a powerful shower jet and super-fluffy towels. By the time we’re done we’re both feeling alive again!

11.38
We pack up, and after one last lingering look at the incredible view, head downstairs to check out.
Reception happily take care of our bags; we’re off to enjoy Birmingham’s brilliant shopping.


We're going to need a sizeable wallet!

Harvey Nichols

Selfridges

We’ve really enjoyed the freedom of staying in a self-catering apartment rather than a hotel for once, and next time we visit England’s second city, there’s no doubt we’ll be staying here, at Staying Cool, again.

N: Staying Cool
T: +44 (0) 121 285 1290
E: hello@stayingcool.com
W: stayingcool.com
Rating: ****

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Burrow House, Broadstairs, Kent

We're on our way. 

Thursday 18.15
One of our best girlfriends raves about Broadstairs in Kent so much that Monsieur 2 and I have decided to head down for a night to see if we might fancy a longer visit sometime. Another friend who lives locally has recommended bed and breakfast Burrow House for its quiet location just off the sea-front; we arrive there after a ten minute stroll from Broadstairs station.

18.25
At the door we’re greeted warmly by dapper proprietor Gavin and shown first into what he describes as ‘your drawing room’.

It’s a bright, large room at the front of the immaculate Victorian house and we’re happy to sink into a vast velvet sofa and fill out the visitors’ book.

Gavin points out an Inspector Gadget-worthy buzzer wired into a cigar box with which he can be contacted at any time - talk about personal service!


We love a spot of gadgetry - and this is ingenious!

18.36
Gavin shows us up to our room, one of just four - the Wallace. It’s a good size, its centrepiece a beautiful Rococo-style carved king size bed; there are also a couple of very comfy looking deep-red velvet armchairs and an eye-catching ornate chandelier. The room has all the elegance of any boutique hotel we’ve stayed in, but with the personal feel of someone’s home.

Our bedroom at Burrow House features a Rococo-style carved king-size bed.

18.52
Once we’ve unpacked, we decide to head down to the beach as it’s a beautiful sunny evening. We know it can’t be far as we can just see the sea from our window! Turning left out of Burrow House, it’s a couple of minutes to the promenade and then just a few hundred metres further along - past Lillyputt Minigolf, sadly closed! - to the golden sandy sweep of Viking Bay.

Viking Bay

With the sun slowly setting and the gentle waves lapping the sand, it couldn’t be more romantic. The locals are a bohemian bunch and no-one bats an eyelid as we walk happily hand-in-hand.

19.25
Ready for a drink, we wander from the seafront and chance upon the Neptune’s Hall, what Monsieur 2 calls ‘an old man’s pub’ but I prefer to think of as ‘unspoiled’. We enjoy a pint of local Shepherd Neame ale and admire some of the photos from the annual Dickens festival which passes through the pub. Charles Dickens, Britain’s greatest ever author, was a regular visitor to Broadstairs and notably its most famous fan. His novel Bleak House was inspired by the place, and as we walk around the town we smile as we clock plenty of references to one of our favourite literary legends.

The Charles Dickens Museum

20.40
We’ve read that there are some good restaurants in the town but ever since we caught a waft of salt and vinegar as we walked down from the station we’ve been dreaming of fish and chips! We pick some up from top-notch chippy Star Of The Sea on the High Street, and take them back down to the promenade.

As we eat, night falls and the moon reflects on the water...it’s picture perfect.

21.15
As we stroll back towards Burrow House the neon sign of Morelli’s ice-cream parlour catches our eye and draws us in. There’s a huge variety of flavours of both gelato and sorbet; we can’t resist and share a cone of rhubarb and custard and mint choc chip - delicious.

Morelli's Icecream Parlour, Broadstairs

21.35
Back at Burrow House we head up to the Wallace Room, noticing on the way that stencilled lampshades cast striking shadows on the walls, a design detail that meets our approval. We make a bedtime cuppa, slip between the silky-soft covers and snuggle up to watch an old movie. Bliss.

Friday 08.00
Waking to the sound of seagulls from a very peaceful night’s sleep - the bed was super-comfy with its memory foam mattress - we start the day with a shower in our small, but pretty bathroom using the patriotic Penhaligon’s products.

08.30
We saunter downstairs to the sun-filled dining room for breakfast, collecting our complimentary Independent newspaper on the way.

A table’s been set for us by the bay window, ready with a colourful fresh fruit platter and freshly-squeezed orange juice.

Gavin used to be a chef and has even served royalty - he clearly knows how to make guests feel like it too. He personally cooks our full English, using some wonderful local produce - we both comment on the wonderful thick bacon and properly meaty sausages, and it’s all served with elegance and impeccable manners.

09.20
Although we don’t have to check out until 11.00, we bid Gavin and Burrow House goodbye as we want to spend some more time enjoying the town before our train home. Just round the corner we stop for coffee and cake at 1950s-themed Oscar’s Festival Cafe, a tiny little hut bursting with character - it feels like a community centre as much as a cafe!

We also visit some of the town’s little side streets lined with beautiful 17th century cottages, before one last stroll along the beach.

11.11
Time to board the train home, but only for now; our girlfriend was right about how brilliant Broadstairs is. We’re definitely going to come back for longer, and take in the nearby Thanet towns of Margate and Ramsgate too. When we do, we’ll certainly be very happy to return for more of the homely luxury and warm welcome of Burrow House.

Au revoir to the glorious Viking Bay

N: Burrow House
A: Granville Road, Broadstairs, Kent CT10 1QD
T: 01843 601817
E: enquiries@burrowhouse.com
W: burrowhouse.com
Our rating: ****

Hazlitt's, Soho, London

Saturday, 17.20
Before today, Monsieur 2 and I have walked past this discreet terrace of Georgian houses on Soho’s fashionable Frith Street dozens of times and always assumed that the name ‘Hazlitt’s’, painted elegantly above the door, was that of a venerable law firm, or private members’ club. But a writer friend of ours has spilled the beans and let us in on the fact that behind the dark green door lies an extremely luxurious hotel, popular with authors, actors and other creative types. Her enthusiastic recommendation was all the persuading we needed and we’ve booked ourselves in for a night.

17.25
The reception area sets the tone for the rest of the hotel; grand, formal, but friendly. The concierge beams as he tells us that our room is his favourite. He walks us along a chandelier-lit corridor to the lift, pointing out the residents’ lounge complete with honesty bar on the way.

17.29
The thirty rooms at Hazlitt’s don’t have numbers, they’re named after people who have lived at or visited this address (William Hazlitt, the great 19th century essayist, died here in 1830 giving the hotel its name). Our room is the Duke of Monmouth; I say ‘room’, but as we enter and see a staircase to our left we realise that it is in fact a suite!

Checking out the bedroom first, we’re immediately impressed by the gorgeous decor - with tapestries and oil paintings it’s certainly a room fit for a Duke!

The immense canopied bed bears the royal crest, reflecting the Duke of Monmouth’s princely blood; in the bay window, half-concealed by heavy floor-to-ceiling velvet curtains, there’s an elegant antique writing desk. There are some unobtrusive mod-cons though; mirrored panels conceal a flat-screen TV, and the heavy plush window blinds are electric. It’s the perfect balance of old and new.

Most spectacular is the enormous bathtub occupying one side of the room, watched over by a life-size bronze eagle from whose beak the water flows. We’ve never seen anything like it!

17.40
We head upstairs. There’s a comfortable lounge area (complete with chess table!), a shower room - the toilet is concealed within an actual wooden throne - and an incredible in-room bar stocked with bottles of spirits, wines and, our new favourite amenity against which all others will be judged, a champagne fridge containing full-size bottles of fine fizz!

As if we could be any more excited by our opulent digs, we open up the French windows and step out onto...our very own private roof terrace. One flick of a switch retracts the glass ceiling and opens us up to the warm evening air. We grab a bottle of bubbly from the fridge, pop the cork and relax. This really is the life.

19.05
We’re starting to get peckish. The only thing Hazlitt’s lacks is its own restaurant but this being Soho, we’re absolutely spoiled for choice. On the strength of great word-of-mouth we head for hot new ramen bar Tonkotsu on neighbouring Dean Street, where we slurp delicious bowls of rich pork broth and noodles and wash down the best kara age - fried chicken - and gyoza we’ve had in a long while with craft beers.

20.08
It wouldn’t be a night in Soho without taking in a bit of the gay scene, and right opposite Hazlitt’s is cool bar Circa. We stop in for a couple of cocktails and are tempted to stay out, but knowing that the Duke of Monmouth suite is waiting for us across the road is enough to draw us back. We love it so much we want to make the most of it!

21.46
That sumptuous bathtub is easily big enough for two; we fill it deeply, splash in some of the gorgeous REN bath oil that’s included in the generous selection, and sink in for a soak...

23.12
Time for bed. The covers are beautifully soft, the mattress is just right...it’s not long before we’re sound asleep.

Sunday 09.30
There’s a knock at the door and a maid brings in our breakfast, chosen the night before. It’s a bright morning so we take the tray out to the roof terrace. There’s a bacon sarnie for me  - good bacon, but rather dry crunchy bread - and healthy fresh fruit and granola for Monsieur 2, along with some pastries.

Compared to the supreme quality of everything else about Hazlitt’s, breakfast seems a bit ordinary, but quite frankly where else could you say you ate breakfast on a roof terrace, in morning sunshine, watched over by a full-size marble stag?!

10.55
With some reluctance, we bid au revoir to the Duke of Monmouth; it really is a remarkable suite in a hotel full of character and charm. On the way down to reception we notice a writing desk and chair set out on a landing, as if waiting for William Hazlitt to come back one day. We certainly wouldn’t blame him, as we know we will.

N: Hazlitts
A: 6 Frith Street, Soho Square, London W1D 3JA
T: +442074341771
E: reservations@hazlitts.co.uk
W: hazlittshotel.com
Our rating: ****

www.deuxmessieurs.com