The George in Rye

Friday 14.54 We know we’re going to like Rye the moment we arrive. The Edwardian station, with its wooden signal box on stilts, is straight out of The Railway Children. It’s a few minutes’ walk up the hill to the High Street and our hotel for the night, The George.

Rye station feels like it's straight out of the Railway Children

15.02
The imposing, beautifully preserved main building of The George was once a coaching inn, built in 1575. It doesn’t take much imagination to picture horse-drawn carriages depositing their passengers at the grand entrance.

The George has a Gorgeous Pistachio Exterior

The reception, with its plush chairs, formal desks and exposed timbers, maintains the sense of grandeur but it’s welcoming, not intimidating.

15.10
All checked in we’re shown to our room. Over time The George's owners have acquired outbuildings and even a complete detached house and converted them into bedrooms, all connected by beautiful shaded courtyards.

The Courtyard sits between the outbuildings at The George

With views over the tiled rooftops of Rye, it almost feels like a self-contained village.

15.14

Colourful and playful in Room 45.

We're in room 45, tucked away up its own private staircase. As we enter, we’re charmed by the colourful decor. One wall is papered in bold, but not overwhelming so, flock wallpaper, and its bands of bright hues are picked out in the upholstery and ornaments of the generous space around us.

Man's best friend keeps guard from the mantelpiece

Classic FM is playing on the Tivoli radio by the bed and a perfect shiny apple awaits us on the sideboard.

We’re impressed.

15.27
Monsieur 2 always likes a cuppa when we check into a hotel and is pleased to find top-quality Teapigs teas in the caddy. Boiling the kettle is a bit of a challenge; the placing of sockets around the room is a little haphazard, but it’s no big deal, and it’s soon steaming away.

16.00
We head out into the town - no need for a map, we just wander. Rye is really beautiful; there are loads of lovely little artsy-craftsy and antique shops clustered down by the quayside and 16th century cottages line the quiet cobbled lanes.

A large cannon (with balls) but no sign of Cher

There’s even a tiny castle, its cannon still pointing out to sea a reminder of Rye’s historical status as one of the powerful Cinque Ports.

18.03
Back at The George we decide to freshen up before dinner. In our large bathroom there’s a charming tin bath - very Dickensian! - but it looks barely big enough for one Monsieur never mind two, so we take a shower in the huge tiled shower room instead, happily noting the complimentary REN products.

19.30
We’re shown to a great corner table in The Grill and take in the attractive room. Done out in countryside greens with some bold art on the walls it feels modern but unpretentious. As is the menu; divided simply into Starters, From The Grill, From The Sea and Steak-Frites, it’s attentive to locality and seasonality.

To start I have roasted tomato soup, often a boring choice but not here - it’s smoky and subtly spicy, and in the middle there’s a mound of dressed crab on a crouton - the combination of flavours is unusual but works brilliantly.

Msr 2's grilled gambas comes to the table sizzling, the butter bubbling away

I’m envious, though, of Monsieur 2’s amazing main course; five huge prawns, cooked on the white-hot Josper grill and brought to the table in a cast-iron skillet, swimming in bubbling garlic- and chilli-rich butter. Begrudgingly he lets me try one and it’s gorgeous - sweet, salty, spicy...and messy!

Stylish simplicity: marinaded cherries with yoghurt sorbet, served in a frosted Martini glass.

We share a refreshing pudding of marinaded cherries with yoghurt sorbet which, served in a frosted Martini glass, looks as good as it tastes. All in all it’s a fantastic meal; there are clearly some very talented people in the kitchen here.

21.45
The bar, The George Tap, has the feel of a cosy country pub even though it sits within the hotel.

It’s busy with locals but we manage to find a corner to cuddle up in for a nightcap.

Cosy corners - perfect for a cheeky night-cap

It’s open 24 hours for guests, a real rarity, but we’re drowsy from dinner so decide it’s time for bed.

22.27
We get back to the room to find the bed’s been turned down and the curtains drawn for us, so all we have to do is brush our teeth and fall into bed...

Saturday 08.57
We wake to the sound of seagulls having slept really deeply - the beautiful Frette bed linen was soft as silk and the bed so huge that at times we both wondered if there really was a second Monsieur in there with us!

09.20
We dress and go downstairs to the restaurant for breakfast. There’s a huge selection of baked goods and cereals as well as a full English or lighter hot options (eggs Benedict, boiled eggs and soldiers...) - we choose smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. Our hot food arrives before we've even finished drizzling our gorgeous nutty granola in honey; the speed of arrival suggests it’s not cooked to order, which is surprising given the attention to detail at supper. Tasty though!

10.41
Time to check out and we can tell that the staff really mean it when they say they hope we’ve enjoyed our stay. We certainly have; The George is a great hotel in a beautiful town that we’ve fallen just a little bit in love with.

Rye is very picturesque

As we stroll back along the cobbled streets to the station, it doesn’t just feel like we’re leaving another place, but another time.

N: The George in Rye
A: 98 High Street  Rye, East Sussex, TN31 7JT
T: 01797 222114
E: stay@thegeorgeinrye.com
W: thegeorgeinrye.com
Our rating: 4*

Zanzibar, Hastings

Thursday, 18.47 It’s tipping down with rain as our train pulls in, late, at St Leonard's Warrior Square station. It’s such a short walk - just across the Square and along the promenade - to Zanzibar, our hotel for the night, that we decide to forego a taxi.

She's not amused and at first, nor are we

But we still get soaked, and miserable; on the way we pass a statue of a very glum-looking Queen Victoria and like Her Majesty we're not amused either.

18.52 All cares are forgotten though the moment we arrive at Zanzibar. We’re greeted with a warm “Ah, I’ve been expecting you!” by duty manager Monica and given a quick show-round.

The decor’s very calming; the well-travelled owners have collected beautiful sculptures, religious artefacts and furniture from around the world and we spot many a quiet corner that would be perfect for meditation. 

Monica also points out the library of books and DVDs, from which we’re invited to help ourselves any time, and then taken upstairs to our room.

19.00 The eight rooms at Zanzibar take their names from favourite places the owners have been; ours is South America. It's fabulous, two rooms knocked into one, divided by a theatrical ceiling-to-floor curtain. On one side there’s the sleeping and living area, with a huge wooden bed and a dining table by the sash window looking out to sea. There’s even a telescope! 

To watch the boys go by!

The other side resembles our own private spa, with an immense bath tub, his-and-his limestone sinks, loads of full-size Elemis products and super-fluffy towels, robes and slippers. The only thing we don’t love is that there’s no door on the loo, it’s just tucked away in a corner; Monsieur 2 and I love each other very much and share most things, but there’s a line.

The bath is huge. And has Elemis goodies. Love.

19.10 We’ve been asked to choose what we’d like for breakfast from a lengthy menu and bring it down when we go for dinner. There’s no indication of what the supplements are for Champagne, or for having breakfast in bed, and then we realise why - there aren’t any. It’s all included! Neither of us can think of anywhere we’ve stayed where bubbly at breakfast comes as standard!

19.46 We change and go downstairs to the hotel restaurant Pier Nine, where another pleasant surprise awaits us -  a complimentary welcome drink! As we sip our G&Ts we choose from the modern bistro menu.

Monsieur 2 starts with fantastic crisp seafood fritto misto while I enjoy a fiddly-to-eat but delicious combination of dressed crab with potted shrimps. For our main courses I see off a good quality, if slightly dry, rare breed pork chop with mini jacket potatoes; Monsieur 2’s rib eye steak is on the blue side of rare but he decides to persevere and it’s terrific, especially dipped into the tangy red wine gravy.

Puddings - salted caramel ice cream with roasted mango puree, and Baileys arctic roll - are lick-the-plate-clean perfect. It’s been a lovely meal; with the room’s bright pastel colours and driftwood furniture, coupled with the sea view, it’s felt like eating in our own private beach-house.  

Friendly, playful service from L.A.-born waitress Jackie has been a hoot, and at just £40 each it’s one of the best, and best-value, meals we’ve had in quite a while. 

21.40
Back in the South America room we slip into the super-comfy bed and cuddle up to watch a DVD from the library - Shakespeare In Love suits our romantic mood and we fall asleep happily afterwards...  Friday 08.30
A blissful start to the day - a lovely soak in the bath with my free newspaper (another complimentary item that’s usually charged for!) Stapled to the front is the day’s weather forecast and suggestions for what to do in the town - so thoughtful!

Forecast for the day: fun and sun!

09.30
On the dot of the requested time, there’s a knock on the door and breakfast’s brought in. What a feast! 

Just the first part of our brilliant breakfast.

Great granola, juicy fresh fruit, Hastings kipper with melted butter and a poached egg for me and a full English for Monsieur 2, along with freshly-squeezed juice, tea and of course that decadent glass of bubbly. This really is the life.

Kipper for breakfast - delicious!

We fool around with our telescope watching the sea - and boys - from our window.

10.59

We know we’ve really liked somewhere when we wait until the very last minute to leave, and that’s exactly what we do at Zanzibar.

We’ve loved the warmth of welcome from all the staff, the sense of tranquility and escape, and the generosity of having so much included in the room rate that would be extra elsewhere. As we step out onto the promenade, the sun now shining in contrast to yesterday’s rain, we’re already talking about when we can come back again.

N: Zanzibar International Hotel A: 9 Eversfield Place, St Leonards-On-Sea, Hastings, East Sussex TN37 6BY

W: www.zanzibarhotel.co.uk

T: 01424 460109

E: info@zanzibarhotel.co.uk
Our rating: *****